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" Peak Climbing in Nepal, Climbing Peaks in Nepal, Major Peaks Nepal, Lobuche East, Island Peak, Kwangde Ri, Kusum Kanguru, Mera peak ,Singu Chuli , Pisang Peak, Huinchuli, Mardi Himal, Tharpu Chuli, Dhampus Peak, Paldor Peak,  Everest Trek, Everest Trekking, Nepal Tekking, Everest Region Trekking, Everest Treks, Higest peak In The World, Trekking au Népal, Voyages au Népal, Mt. Everest, Treks To Everest, Everest Base Camp, Everest Base Camp Trekking, Everest In Nepal Trekking, Sagarmatha National Park, Nepal Gokyo Trekking, Everest Trek, Everest Trekking, Everest Region Trekking, Everet Journey, Trekking To Everest, Trek To Everest, Trekking au Népal, Voyages au Népal, Everest Base Camp Trek, Everest Region Trekking, Mt Everest Trek, sherpa Village Trekking, Word Heritage Site Of Nepal, Culture Trekking In Nepal, Adventure Everest Trek, Himalayan Region, Sherpa Culture In Everest Region, Sherpa Village In Nepal, Village Trekking, Nepal Trekking, Everest Base Camp Trekking, Tyanbuche, Namche Bazar, Namche Village, Everest base camp trek, Mt. Everest trek via Jiri, Kalapathar Trekking, Kalaphatar treks, Kalaphatar Treking, Gokyo Trekking, Gokyo Trek, Gokyo Treks, Renjo pass,  Gokyo Lake Trekking, Journey To Everest, Trekking In Nepal, Gokyo Valley Trekking, Lovely Trek, Trekking To Everest, Fantastic Treks, Adventure Everest Trek, Trek To Everest, Everest Region Trekking, Nepal Trekking, Highest peak In World, Sherpa Village Trekking, Everest Base Camp Trekking"

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India  India

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Peak Climbing

 

Lobuche East ( 6119m/20,075ft ) :

Lobuche East PeakThere exist two distinct summit to Lobuche peak: Lobuche east ( 6119m/ 20,075ft ) and Lobuche west ( 6145m/ 20161ft ). Although they are connected by a continuous ridge there is a sharp gap and a considerable distance between them. The trekking peak permit is for the east peak, whilst Lobuche west, well seen at the head of the Lobuche glacier, requires and expedition permit. Lobuche is also spelt Lobuche on some maps.

Lobuche peak is an attractive summit, offering a variety of existing routes and wide scope for new lines. Seen from near Pheriche, the dark triangle of its rocky east face rises above the moraines of the Khumbu Glacier to and icy skyline. This skyline forms the south ridges, the junction of the east faces with the glaciated south west face and the line of the normal route of ascent. This in turn leads to the summit ridge running north west from the top of the east faces through several small summit to the east peak.

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Island Peak ( 6189m/ 20305ft ) :

Island PeakThis peak offers an enjoyable climb the peak, also provides some of the most striking scenery in the Khumbu. If the peak can be likened to an Island in a glacial sea, than the main land forms a semicircle of cliffs that rise in the north to the rugged summit of Nuptse ( 7879m/ 25850ft ), Lhotse ( 9501m/27870ft), Lhotse middle peak( 8410m/ 27590ft), as yet still unclimbed and Lhotse Shar ( 8383m/ 27503ft ). To the east, rising above the frozen waves of the Lhotse Shar glacier, is Cho polu( 6734m/ 22093ft ), beyond which can be seen the red granite mass of Makalu ( 8475m/ 27805ft). To the south of the Imja glacier and icy flutings of Baruntse ( 7720m/ 25328ft) and the Amphu peaks lead the eye to the lofty pinnacle of Ama Dablam ( 6856m/ 22493ft ), which is liked a giant sea – stack guarding the entrance to the glacial bay in which Island peak stands


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Kwangde Ri ( 6187m/ 20298ft ) :

Kwandge RiThis difficult mountain forms and impressive multi – summited ridge on the eastern end of the Lumding Himal, which in turn can be regarded as part of the Rolwaling Himal. Rising south west of Namche Bazaar above the Bhote Koshi, the mountain’s northern flank forms an impressive barrier that throws down several steep ridges to the north. Its glaciated southern flank is more aloof. It is hidden at the northern end up the Lumding Drangka, a high and remote valley bounded to the west by the tumbling glaciers of karyolung (6511m/21361ft ), Khartang (6853m/ 22484ft ) and Numbur ( 6959m/ 22831ft ). The Lumding valley is rarely visited by trekkers or expeditions. At the northern end of the valley the stream cascades down a natural rocky barrier above which is a moraine – bound lake, the Tsho- Og, at the snout of the Lumding glacier.

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Kusum Kanguru( 6,369m/ 20,896ft):

Kusum KanguruThis impressive rock and ice peak dominates the southern end of the Charpati Himal, which separates the valley of the Dhudh Koshi from the upper reaches of the Hinku – Drangka. The northern end of this chain is dominated by the spectacular fangs of Kangtega( 6779m/22241ft) and Thamaserku( 6608m/21680ft). Kusum Kanguru is well hidden until you get out of the valley, although it can be glimpsed from the Namche trail at Ghat, from where the west and south-west faces can be seen up the valley of the Kusum Drangka. A complex, triple summited mountain, Kusung Kanguru, also spelt Kusum Kanguru, has at least five major ridges, and as many faces, of which the north faces of the main summit is the most awesome. The name Kusum Kanguru( or more correctly Kusum Kangri) comes from Tibetan, meaning “ three snow peaks”.

Kusum Kanguru has the reputation for beings the most difficult without doubt increased by the level “ trekking peak” , with all that entails. It can in no way, even by its most moderate route, be compared with the more straight forward climbs on summit such as Island, Mera, or Pisang for instance. The climbing is technically difficult, needing a high degree of commitment and experience. Where as many Nepal’s peaks are ideal for well- led groups with limited experience, this mountain is not.

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Mera peak ( 6,476m/21,247ft):

Mera PeakThe bulk of Mera, officially the highest of Nepal’s permitted trekking peaks, rise to the south of Everest and dominates the watershed between the wild and heavily wooded valleys of the Hinku and Hongu Drangkas . Mera (Peak) is a chance to venture into a little visited and as yet unspoilt region of Nepal where the hillsides are still densely forested and a need to be self-sufficient is essential. There is also, of course, the pleasure of going above 21,000 feet.” Both the Hongu and Hinku valleys remain uninhabited although there are Kharka in the Upper Hinku basin where Sherpa from the South, near Pangkongma, graze their animals during the grass- growing monsoon. The upper Hongu Basin is truly a mountain wilderness, a place of massive moraines, glacial lakes and spectacular peaks that include Charmlang and Baruntse.

Additionally, it offers some of the most spectacular mountain scenery, pristine forest, and high altitude climbing in the world. We start this climb with a hair-raising flight into the small town of Lukla at 2,800 m (9,184 ft). From there it is a six-day trek, with plenty of acclimatization days to keep us healthy at our ever-increasing altitude, through some of Nepal’s most pristine Rhododendron, oak, silver fir and birch forests, past beautiful alpine lakes, and finally up to the foot of Mera Glacier where we’ll establish base camp. We’ll set up two more high camps, the first over 300 m above B.C. on the Mera Glacier, and the second after we cross the Mera crevasse field at 5,800 m. From here it is a steady and steep climb to reach the summit, with awe-inspiring views of Kanchenjunga and Makalu to the east, Everest and Lhotse to the north, and Ama Dablam and Cho Oyu to the west.

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Singu Chuli (6501m/ 21328ft ):

Singu ChuliSingu Chuli is the mountain formerly known as Fluted peak. A few days after, enjoying that view of “ Fluters”, wilf Noyce and David Cox went on to make the first ascent of this attractive and difficult mountain by its North-East Face and the top section of the East Ridge. Despite the relative ease of access to the Sanctuary this mountain has proven too difficult for most commercial climbing groups who have tended to concentrate their efforts on Tent Peak.

As you approach the Sanctuary and reach the simple lodges at Machha-puchhare base camp little can be seen of the mountain, which is toward the head of the valley, cradling the West Annapurna Glacier .It is the first summit on the long ridge thrown down from Tarke Kang (Glacier Dome), which separates the South and West Annapurna Glaciers.

The approach to the first ascent route follows a shelf and a trough above the west bank of the West Annapurna Glacier, skirting round the base of the mountain’s rocky east ridge to gain the foot of the North-East Face, which is unseen, even from the moraines above the lodges.

Perhaps the best distant view of the mountain is from Annapurna South base camp. From the moraines above the lodges the fluted South Face presents a ‘beautiful shape, buttressed by pencil-shadowy ridges of snow and ice’ well seen, rising above the ridge connecting it with Tharpu Chuli.

To date, apart from the original route, most efforts to climb the mountain have concentrated on the face and ridges seen from this viewpoint. The South-West Ridge, the one that ultimately connects to Tent Peak, is an obvious, albeit corniced, line although a far more complicated connecting ridge than at first at first it appears. The terrain between the two peaks is quite confused and not at all a straightforward ridge. The fluted face to the right of the ridge, although menaced in places by ice bulges and seracs is set at a reasonable angle and appears an attractive proposition. However, despite rumours that routes have been made on these, no route descriptions have been made available and the NMA have no record of ascents.

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Pisang Peak( 6091m/ 19983ft):

Pisang Peak
Pisang Peak is the most popular among the trekking peaks in Nepal in Annapurna region, This Peak offers good scope for exploration. The western flank of the mountain is guarded by a hanging glacier and offers considerable challenge. The western end of the ridge is guarded by huge rock slabs, which make it difficult to climb. A German Expedition made the first ascent of Pisang Peak in 1955.
Pisang peak being the truncated southern end of the mountain. This is made up of steeply tilted rock, the dip slope of which faces the valley and is well seen in this peak and the great rock slabs further down the valley.

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Huinchuli (6331m/20771ft):

HuinchuliHuinchuli, with Annapurna South, forms the massive south-facing wall, well seen when trekking north from Pokhara. Huinchuli is the eastern bastion of this rampart, with its East Face overlooking the Modi Khola, guarding the entrance to the Annapurna Sanctuary. An impressive mountain in its own right, and not, as it was at one time dubbed, ‘the eastern outlier of Annapurna South’. Despite the relative ease of access to the mountain and the popularity, rightly so, of the Sanctuary as a trekking destination, it has, like Fluted Peak , received little attention from mountaineers although it obviously offers major new route potential.

From the south, Huinchuli has few weaknesses in its defenses. A precipitous south wall rises above the untracked Chomrong Khola, seemingly menaced by snow avalanches from the slabby, ice-veined buttresses above. The eastern flank from afar appears the most approach- able; however, once beyond Kuldi Ghar, it seems far less so. Out of sight, the mountain remains an unknown quantity approached by only a few, through steep and dense bamboo forest, menaced by unseen avalanche danger from hanging glaciers above. From the north the mountain rises steeply above the moraines of the Annapurna South Glacier in a series of slabby buttresses and an ill-defined and complicated North Ridge. These in turn lead to a final triangle of fluted ice that form the summit. The summit is bounded on the east by a ridge that rises in an icy parabola from a small col , from which a steep couloirs descends towards the moraines above the lodges at base camp. This is a feasible looking route, and is as yet unclimbed. The mountain’s western arm is the ridge connecting it with Annapurna South, and forming from the north an icy wall. It is this wall that has provided the key to new things.

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Mardi Himal (5555m/18225ft):

Mardi HimalLess than fifteen miles north of Pokhara, as the crow flies, this mountain is the most southerly of the Annapurna range. From some viewpoints it seems little more than an outlier on the south-west flank of Machhapuchhare. Best seen from the south, the mountain terminates the South-West ridge of Machhapuchhare as a distinct and separate mass, at right-angles to that ridge. On Mardi Himal’s South-West Face are three well-defined ridges rising from rock buttresses and separated by hanging glaciers. It is the most southerly of these that is said to have been climbed, but no details are available

Mardi Himal’s East Face is separated from Machhapuchhare ridge by a col (circa5200m/17060ft). The normal route of ascent reaches this col from a hidden plateau; the ‘Other Sanctuary’, as Raberts calls it. Obviously, the peak has a commanding view of the Aannapurna Range and undoubtedly a spectacular one of the Himalayan Matterhorn, Machhapurchhare. Few westerners visit the valleys and ridges south of Mardi Himal. They are steep sided and heavily wooded with bamboo and rhododendron. Above the forest, high alpine pastures provide good grazing and a habitat for undisturbed wildlife. Despite its lowly altitude the mountain obviously has a great deal of potential for those interested in small-scale exploratory mountaineering and the ridges already mentioned present obvious climbing challenges at a reasonable standard.

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Tharpu Chuli (5500m/18045ft):

Tharpu ChuliSituated in the heart of the Annapurna Sanctuary, Tharpu Chuli is an attractive mountain; part of the edge line, thrown south from Glacier Done, that includes Singu Chuli and acts as a central divider between the semi-circle of peaks enclosing the Sanctuary. The mountain is sometimes confused with Rakshi peak, a small summit and viewpoint to the west of Tharpu Chuli, that stands above named after Roberts’ dog!

As well as enjoyable climbing the mountains offers one of the outstanding viewpoints of the Annapurna massive. From its summit you have a superb panorama of Huinchuli (6331m/20771ft), Annapurna South (7219m/ 23684ft), Fang (7647m/ 25089ft), Gangapurna (7455m/ 24459ft), Annapurna III (7555m/ 24787ft), Machhapuchhare (6993m/ 22943ft) and of course Singu Chuli or Fluted Peak (6501m/ 21329ft).

Seen from the moraines above the huts at the Annapurna South base camp, the mountain takes on a shape, aptly described by its former name Tent Peak, with its long South-East Ridge forming the sloping ridge pole. The lower half of the South-West Face is a series of rocky gullies and buttresses giving way to strongly etched snow flutes. Under a lot of snow this becomes a very attractive aspect indeed with a good number of lines. The North-West Ridge, itself the normal line of ascent, which is gained by the flat glacier to the west.

Tharpu Chuli’s relatively low altitude and reasonable approach, without serious objective danger, make this an attractive mountain, especially when combined with its position and ease of access. At present three routes have been recorded and many more are obviously possible. Because of the large number of climbing expeditions that enter the Sanctuary it might well be the peak has received a lot of unnoticed attention.

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Dhampus Peak (6012m/ 19,725ft):

Dhampus PeakSituated in the heart of the Dhaulagiri region, Dhampus peak is an interesting peak for climbers. The path to High Plains Viewpoint is part of an adventurous trail to Dhampus-pass, from where a gently rising slope leads to Dhampus-peak. Though the mountain exceeds the 6000-meter frontier, no technical climbing is involved to reach the summit. Nevertheless, impressive surroundings of seven and eight thousenders make this undertaking a real Himalayan adventure. This peak provides you more than thirty mountain views and as well as Dhaulagiri glacier and deepest gorge of the world

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Paldor Peak (5928m/19450ft):

PaldorOn a clear day the Ganesh Himal, with the icy fangs of pabil (7101m/ 23300ft), Lobsang Karpo (7150m/ 23458ft),GI (7406m/ 24298ft) and GV (6950m/ 22802ft) can be seen forming an imposing backdrop to the north- west of Kathmandu. Paldor, which can just be picked out from the mass of shapely summits, was first climbed by Bill Tilman, Peter Lloyd, Tenzing Sherpa and Da Namgyal during the monsoon of 1949 by the North-East Ridge, although it must be said that it is difficult to fit Tilman’s description to the actual route.

Paldor lies at the south-east end of the Ganesh Himal marking the junction of the Tiru and Khurpu Dandas at the head of the Mailung Khola, a tributary of the Trisuli Gandaki.

The name Ganesh is taken from the elephant-headed Hindu god of good luck, probably the most popular deity in the Kathmandu valley. As the son of Shiva and his consort Annapurna, or Parvati, his head was severed by his father who then promised to replace it with the first head that came to hand; the first happened to be an elephant’s. Images of Ganesh, sitting astride a shrew, can be seen all over the valley. Since he can cast aside obstacles, his help is invoked whenever a difficult task is to be undertaken.

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Peaks of Nepal :

Lobuche East
Island Peak
Kwangde
Kusum Kangru
Mera Peak

Singu Chuli
Huinchuli
Mardi Himal
Tharpu Chuli
Dhampus Peak
Pisang Peak
Paldor Peak

 

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