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Lobuche East ( 6119m/20,075ft ) :
There exist two distinct summit to Lobuche peak: Lobuche east (
6119m/ 20,075ft ) and Lobuche west ( 6145m/ 20161ft ). Although
they are connected by a continuous ridge there is a sharp gap
and a considerable distance between them. The trekking peak
permit is for the east peak, whilst Lobuche west, well seen at
the head of the Lobuche glacier, requires and expedition permit.
Lobuche is also spelt Lobuche on some maps.
Lobuche peak is an attractive summit, offering a variety of
existing routes and wide scope for new lines. Seen from near
Pheriche, the dark triangle of its rocky east face rises above
the moraines of the Khumbu Glacier to and icy skyline. This
skyline forms the south ridges, the junction of the east faces
with the glaciated south west face and the line of the normal
route of ascent. This in turn leads to the summit ridge running
north west from the top of the east faces through several small
summit to the east peak.
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Island Peak (
6189m/ 20305ft ) :
This peak offers an enjoyable climb the peak, also provides some
of the most striking scenery in the Khumbu. If the peak can be
likened to an Island in a glacial sea, than the main land forms
a semicircle of cliffs that rise in the north to the rugged
summit of Nuptse ( 7879m/ 25850ft ), Lhotse ( 9501m/27870ft),
Lhotse middle peak( 8410m/ 27590ft), as yet still unclimbed and
Lhotse Shar ( 8383m/ 27503ft ). To the east, rising above the
frozen waves of the Lhotse Shar glacier, is Cho polu( 6734m/
22093ft ), beyond which can be seen the red granite mass of
Makalu ( 8475m/ 27805ft). To the south of the Imja glacier and
icy flutings of Baruntse ( 7720m/ 25328ft) and the Amphu peaks
lead the eye to the lofty pinnacle of Ama Dablam ( 6856m/
22493ft ), which is liked a giant sea – stack guarding the
entrance to the glacial bay in which Island peak stands
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Kwangde Ri (
6187m/ 20298ft ) :
This difficult mountain forms and impressive multi – summited
ridge on the eastern end of the Lumding Himal, which in turn can
be regarded as part of the Rolwaling Himal. Rising south west of
Namche Bazaar above the Bhote Koshi, the mountain’s northern
flank forms an impressive barrier that throws down several steep
ridges to the north. Its glaciated southern flank is more aloof.
It is hidden at the northern end up the Lumding Drangka, a high
and remote valley bounded to the west by the tumbling glaciers
of karyolung (6511m/21361ft ), Khartang (6853m/ 22484ft ) and
Numbur ( 6959m/ 22831ft ). The Lumding valley is rarely visited
by trekkers or expeditions. At the northern end of the valley
the stream cascades down a natural rocky barrier above which is
a moraine – bound lake, the Tsho- Og, at the snout of the
Lumding glacier.
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Kusum Kanguru(
6,369m/ 20,896ft):
This impressive rock and ice peak dominates the southern end of
the Charpati Himal, which separates the valley of the Dhudh Koshi
from the upper reaches of the Hinku – Drangka. The northern end
of this chain is dominated by the spectacular fangs of Kangtega(
6779m/22241ft) and Thamaserku( 6608m/21680ft). Kusum Kanguru is
well hidden until you get out of the valley, although it can be
glimpsed from the Namche trail at Ghat, from where the west and
south-west faces can be seen up the valley of the Kusum Drangka.
A complex, triple summited mountain, Kusung Kanguru, also spelt
Kusum Kanguru, has at least five major ridges, and as many
faces, of which the north faces of the main summit is the most
awesome. The name Kusum Kanguru( or more correctly Kusum Kangri)
comes from Tibetan, meaning “ three snow peaks”.
Kusum Kanguru has the reputation for beings the most difficult
without doubt increased by the level “ trekking peak” , with all
that entails. It can in no way, even by its most moderate route,
be compared with the more straight forward climbs on summit such
as Island, Mera, or Pisang for instance. The climbing is
technically difficult, needing a high degree of commitment and
experience. Where as many Nepal’s peaks are ideal for well- led
groups with limited experience, this mountain is not.
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Mera peak
( 6,476m/21,247ft):
The bulk of Mera, officially the highest of Nepal’s permitted
trekking peaks, rise to the south of Everest and dominates the
watershed between the wild and heavily wooded valleys of the
Hinku and Hongu Drangkas . Mera (Peak) is a chance to venture
into a little visited and as yet unspoilt region of Nepal where
the hillsides are still densely forested and a need to be
self-sufficient is essential. There is also, of course, the
pleasure of going above 21,000 feet.” Both the Hongu and Hinku
valleys remain uninhabited although there are Kharka in the
Upper Hinku basin where Sherpa from the South, near Pangkongma,
graze their animals during the grass- growing monsoon. The upper
Hongu Basin is truly a mountain wilderness, a place of massive
moraines, glacial lakes and spectacular peaks that include
Charmlang and Baruntse.
Additionally, it offers some of the most spectacular mountain
scenery, pristine forest, and high altitude climbing in the
world. We start this climb with a hair-raising flight into the
small town of Lukla at 2,800 m (9,184 ft). From there it is a
six-day trek, with plenty of acclimatization days to keep us
healthy at our ever-increasing altitude, through some of Nepal’s
most pristine Rhododendron, oak, silver fir and birch forests,
past beautiful alpine lakes, and finally up to the foot of Mera
Glacier where we’ll establish base camp. We’ll set up two more
high camps, the first over 300 m above B.C. on the Mera Glacier,
and the second after we cross the Mera crevasse field at 5,800
m. From here it is a steady and steep climb to reach the summit,
with awe-inspiring views of Kanchenjunga and Makalu to the east,
Everest and Lhotse to the north, and Ama Dablam and Cho Oyu to
the west.
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Singu Chuli (6501m/
21328ft ):
Singu Chuli is the mountain formerly known as Fluted peak. A few
days after, enjoying that view of “ Fluters”, wilf Noyce and
David Cox went on to make the first ascent of this attractive
and difficult mountain by its North-East Face and the top
section of the East Ridge. Despite the relative ease of access
to the Sanctuary this mountain has proven too difficult for most
commercial climbing groups who have tended to concentrate their
efforts on Tent Peak.
As you approach the Sanctuary and reach the simple lodges at
Machha-puchhare base camp little can be seen of the mountain,
which is toward the head of the valley, cradling the West
Annapurna Glacier .It is the first summit on the long ridge
thrown down from Tarke Kang (Glacier Dome), which separates the
South and West Annapurna Glaciers.
The approach to the first ascent route follows a shelf and a
trough above the west bank of the West Annapurna Glacier,
skirting round the base of the mountain’s rocky east ridge to
gain the foot of the North-East Face, which is unseen, even from
the moraines above the lodges.
Perhaps the best distant view of the mountain is from Annapurna
South base camp. From the moraines above the lodges the fluted
South Face presents a ‘beautiful shape, buttressed by
pencil-shadowy ridges of snow and ice’ well seen, rising above
the ridge connecting it with Tharpu Chuli.
To date, apart from the original route, most efforts to climb
the mountain have concentrated on the face and ridges seen from
this viewpoint. The South-West Ridge, the one that ultimately
connects to Tent Peak, is an obvious, albeit corniced, line
although a far more complicated connecting ridge than at first
at first it appears. The terrain between the two peaks is quite
confused and not at all a straightforward ridge. The fluted face
to the right of the ridge, although menaced in places by ice
bulges and seracs is set at a reasonable angle and appears an
attractive proposition. However, despite rumours that routes
have been made on these, no route descriptions have been made
available and the NMA have no record of ascents.
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Pisang Peak(
6091m/ 19983ft):
Pisang
Peak is the most popular among the trekking peaks in Nepal in
Annapurna region, This Peak offers good scope for exploration.
The western flank of the mountain is guarded by a hanging
glacier and offers considerable challenge. The western end of
the ridge is guarded by huge rock slabs, which make it difficult
to climb. A German Expedition made the first ascent of Pisang
Peak in 1955.
Pisang
peak being the truncated southern end of the mountain. This is
made up of steeply tilted rock, the dip slope of which faces the
valley and is well seen in this peak and the great rock slabs
further down the valley.
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Huinchuli
(6331m/20771ft):
Huinchuli, with Annapurna South, forms the massive south-facing
wall, well seen when trekking north from Pokhara. Huinchuli is
the eastern bastion of this rampart, with its East Face
overlooking the Modi Khola, guarding the entrance to the
Annapurna Sanctuary. An impressive mountain in its own right,
and not, as it was at one time dubbed, ‘the eastern outlier of
Annapurna South’. Despite the relative ease of access to the
mountain and the popularity, rightly so, of the Sanctuary as a
trekking destination, it has, like Fluted Peak , received little
attention from mountaineers although it obviously offers major
new route potential.
From the south, Huinchuli has few weaknesses in its defenses. A
precipitous south wall rises above the untracked Chomrong Khola,
seemingly menaced by snow avalanches from the slabby, ice-veined
buttresses above. The eastern flank from afar appears the most
approach- able; however, once beyond Kuldi Ghar, it seems far
less so. Out of sight, the mountain remains an unknown quantity
approached by only a few, through steep and dense bamboo forest,
menaced by unseen avalanche danger from hanging glaciers above.
From the north the mountain rises steeply above the moraines of
the Annapurna South Glacier in a series of slabby buttresses and
an ill-defined and complicated North Ridge. These in turn lead
to a final triangle of fluted ice that form the summit. The
summit is bounded on the east by a ridge that rises in an icy
parabola from a small col , from which a steep couloirs descends
towards the moraines above the lodges at base camp. This is a
feasible looking route, and is as yet unclimbed. The mountain’s
western arm is the ridge connecting it with Annapurna South, and
forming from the north an icy wall. It is this wall that has
provided the key to new things.
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Mardi Himal
(5555m/18225ft):
Less than fifteen miles north of Pokhara, as the crow flies,
this mountain is the most southerly of the Annapurna range. From
some viewpoints it seems little more than an outlier on the
south-west flank of Machhapuchhare. Best seen from the south,
the mountain terminates the South-West ridge of Machhapuchhare
as a distinct and separate mass, at right-angles to that ridge.
On Mardi Himal’s South-West Face are three well-defined ridges
rising from rock buttresses and separated by hanging glaciers.
It is the most southerly of these that is said to have been
climbed, but no details are available
Mardi Himal’s East Face is separated from Machhapuchhare ridge
by a col (circa5200m/17060ft). The normal route of ascent
reaches this col from a hidden plateau; the ‘Other Sanctuary’,
as Raberts calls it. Obviously, the peak has a commanding view
of the Aannapurna Range and undoubtedly a spectacular one of the
Himalayan Matterhorn, Machhapurchhare. Few westerners visit the
valleys and ridges south of Mardi Himal. They are steep sided
and heavily wooded with bamboo and rhododendron. Above the
forest, high alpine pastures provide good grazing and a habitat
for undisturbed wildlife. Despite its lowly altitude the
mountain obviously has a great deal of potential for those
interested in small-scale exploratory mountaineering and the
ridges already mentioned present obvious climbing challenges at
a reasonable standard.
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Tharpu Chuli
(5500m/18045ft):
Situated in the heart of the Annapurna Sanctuary, Tharpu Chuli
is an attractive mountain; part of the edge line, thrown south
from Glacier Done, that includes Singu Chuli and acts as a
central divider between the semi-circle of peaks enclosing the
Sanctuary. The mountain is sometimes confused with Rakshi peak,
a small summit and viewpoint to the west of Tharpu Chuli, that
stands above named after Roberts’ dog!
As well as enjoyable climbing the mountains offers one of the
outstanding viewpoints of the Annapurna massive. From its summit
you have a superb panorama of Huinchuli (6331m/20771ft),
Annapurna South (7219m/ 23684ft), Fang (7647m/ 25089ft),
Gangapurna (7455m/ 24459ft), Annapurna III (7555m/ 24787ft),
Machhapuchhare (6993m/ 22943ft) and of course Singu Chuli or
Fluted Peak (6501m/ 21329ft).
Seen from the moraines above the huts at the Annapurna South
base camp, the mountain takes on a shape, aptly described by its
former name Tent Peak, with its long South-East Ridge forming
the sloping ridge pole. The lower half of the South-West Face is
a series of rocky gullies and buttresses giving way to strongly
etched snow flutes. Under a lot of snow this becomes a very
attractive aspect indeed with a good number of lines. The
North-West Ridge, itself the normal line of ascent, which is
gained by the flat glacier to the west.
Tharpu Chuli’s relatively low altitude and reasonable approach,
without serious objective danger, make this an attractive
mountain, especially when combined with its position and ease of
access. At present three routes have been recorded and many more
are obviously possible. Because of the large number of climbing
expeditions that enter the Sanctuary it might well be the peak
has received a lot of unnoticed attention.
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Dhampus Peak
(6012m/ 19,725ft):
Situated in the heart of the Dhaulagiri region, Dhampus peak is
an interesting peak for climbers. The path to High Plains
Viewpoint is part of an adventurous trail to Dhampus-pass, from
where a gently rising slope leads to Dhampus-peak. Though the
mountain exceeds the 6000-meter frontier, no technical climbing
is involved to reach the summit. Nevertheless, impressive
surroundings of seven and eight thousenders make this
undertaking a real Himalayan adventure. This peak provides you
more than thirty mountain views and as well as Dhaulagiri
glacier and deepest gorge of the world
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Paldor Peak
(5928m/19450ft):
On a clear day the Ganesh Himal, with the icy fangs of pabil
(7101m/ 23300ft), Lobsang Karpo (7150m/ 23458ft),GI (7406m/
24298ft) and GV (6950m/ 22802ft) can be seen forming an imposing
backdrop to the north- west of Kathmandu. Paldor, which can just
be picked out from the mass of shapely summits, was first
climbed by Bill Tilman, Peter Lloyd, Tenzing Sherpa and Da
Namgyal during the monsoon of 1949 by the North-East Ridge,
although it must be said that it is difficult to fit Tilman’s
description to the actual route.
Paldor lies at the south-east end of the Ganesh Himal marking
the junction of the Tiru and Khurpu Dandas at the head of the
Mailung Khola, a tributary of the Trisuli Gandaki.
The name Ganesh is taken from the elephant-headed Hindu god of
good luck, probably the most popular deity in the Kathmandu
valley. As the son of Shiva and his consort Annapurna, or
Parvati, his head was severed by his father who then promised to
replace it with the first head that came to hand; the first
happened to be an elephant’s. Images of Ganesh, sitting astride
a shrew, can be seen all over the valley. Since he can cast
aside obstacles, his help is invoked whenever a difficult task
is to be undertaken.
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